25th February - Shopping with V

Yesterday evening we spoke with V, a friend of ours who hails from Jaipur, and who is back in the city visiting his parents for the long weekend.  He gives us some recommendations for places to visit and we agree to meet up in the afternoon for some light shopping and to have dinner together. We have a lie in and enjoy proper hot showers.  Our room is a bit on the small side but is well furnished with a kettle so R is happy. We have a view of the police transport park. Breakfast is a buffet with boiled eggs and parathas, we are set up for the day.

This morning our plan is to visit the arts centre at Jawahar Kala Kendra.But first we need to ride the Jaipur Metro. An eminent Jaipuri of our acquaintance claims that nobody who has ridden the metro can be a true son of Jaipur. As visitors we don't feel that we are letting the side down by using it. The entrance to the current terminus of the only line working is Chandpole, about 50 metres from the front door of our hotel. We descend the steps and struggle a little with the ticket vending machine, which shows the whole planned system, not just the bit that currently operates. A man shouts us over to a kiosk and sells us two tokens. We rouse the security detail from their slumbers and make our way to the platform. D studies the prohibited activity notices and cannot find any reference to photography. After a couple of minutes an inbound train arrives. The dozen or so people on the platform get on the train and so do we. The cars are light, airy and clean, with seating down each side. The announcements are in Hindi and English and there are well situated message boards. When we depart the train is almost empty but it fills up at the first stop and stays quite full for the rest of our 25 minute trip out into the suburbs. Immediately upon leaving Chandpole station the line climbs onto an elevated section and stays there for the rest of the journey.  We get a good view of the city,  which is rather bigger than we first thought,  and this level is good for watching black kites as they soar over the city.

V has aso convinced us to try an online taxi and auto app called Ola. He tells us that there is a promotion running which makes the fares particularly good value right now. D works out the location that we want to go to and fires in the request.  Almost immediately we get a confirmation and the auto is there. We head off in the right direction and, after quite a long ride, we are dropped opposite the entrance to something.  The fare is confirmed by the Ola App and we pay up. Much better than arguing with drivers. Our next problem is crossing 6 lanes of traffic but we cope with that. The place that we have arrived at is not the JKK but Smriti Van, a biodiversity forest park. Entirely D's fault but now we are here let's go for it. The bureaucracy at the entrance gate almost puts R off the place but when she sees that two wheelers have to be parked she cheers up. The first section of the park is quite busy but further in it gets quieter apart from the courting couples.  There are plenty of birds including several that we will have to look up. We also see a mongoose but it is too quick for a photo. In no time two hours has passed.

D works out where the JKK really is and we walk along there, recrossing the six lanes of traffic en route. We get tea and pakoras in the cafe and look at an exhibition by some young artists. Their work seems very good to us. When it is time to meet V by the Ajmeri Gate we summon another Ola auto.  This one is not so quick but turns up. The driver seems to be about as experienced with the Ola system as we are but it gets sorted out. V is waiting for us outside one of the Government controlled craft shops where R is keen to browse. We get some really good advice from V who has a wealth of knowledge on crafts, fabrics and art. He takes us to the section that sells traditional Rajasthani miniature paintings and explains what to look for when buying. He also tells us about stamp paper paintings and we are shown some. These are done on old paper bearing government stamps that were deemed surplus to official requirements. The one that we like gets a modest approval rating from V, will fit our luggage as well as being within budget so we treat ourselves.

After a spot of refreshment we visit a couple of Khadi Shops, where traditional,  handwoven fabrics and garments are sold. Luggage space means that we are spectating rather than participating but there are some great bargains in these shops, particularly as there is a 15% discount across the board. The next stop V's agenda is a street food stall that he reckons sells the best kachoris in Jaipur. They are divine, although we have never had kachoris before so have no point of reference. We will certainly be trying them again. It is getting dark as we take an auto over to the bazaar area of the old town. Business is in full flow as we walk the arcade of ironmongers and cooking utensil stores. Holi is going to happen in a few weeks so the coloured powders are on sale already. D's camera gets a good workout. 

We move on to Bangle Street where R gets a seat to talk turkey with a top bangleteer. Unfortunately this street gets used as a thoroughfare for large numbers of two wheelers which does nothing for the air quality. We beat a retreat and decide that it is time to eat. An auto takes us to the Four Seasons where we enjoy some delicious paneer, not words we ever imagined writing in the same sentence. V thinks that he has spotted Maggie Smith but it is a false alarm, although there is a resemblance. As we leave the restaurant R realises that she no longer has her hat. We hunt around and ask if it has been handed in then V has a brainwave. We have a card from the bangle shop and V phones. The hat is safe and we can collect it tomorrow morning. We have had a splendid day and will sleep well tonight.