Last time we spent Republic Day in West Bengal we finished up in a police station. Such peaks of excitement were not achieved today so thrill seekers can switch off now.
We had a reasonable night's sleep and were glad that we packed our earplugs. After breakfast we loaded up the day pack and set out for some fun. Outside the hotel we were hailed by one of the regular Sudder Street taxi bandits and, after tense negotiations, a fare was agreed and we climbed into his battered Ambassador. R cracked open a window resulting in the pane of glass descending irretrievably into the innards of the door.
In honour of Republic Day all of the buses had been diverted and were required to do U-turns across Chowringhee, causing traffic chaos and some Bengali bad language from our driver. Once free of the buses we made rapid progress south and then west across the 2nd Hooghly Bridge which has proper name but nobody remembers it. There is plenty of green, white and orange bunting on display to mark the day and a lot of shops seem to be closed.
Last year we got to the Botanic Gardens too early and were refused admittance. This time, after buying our tickets, we are in no bother. The object of the excursion is bird watching and almost straight away a Lesser Goldenback Woodpecker is spotted. A good start and lots more follow including several brightly coloured kingfishers.
The morning is heating up and the crowds building. The Botanical Gardens seem to be a major Bank Holiday attraction in these parts. There are the usual groups of youths who want to have their photos taken with us. They seem put out when D asks for Rs20 but seem to forget that Foreigners pay 20x the local rate for admission. Why should we also have to provide entertainment? A couple of family groups also ask for photos and we oblige. One gent explains that they consider our visits to be a great honour. Hmmm!
Having seen a sufficiency of feathered friends we took a taxi ride to Howrah, whence we embarked on the ferry back to Kolkata proper. Well worth the 5 rupee ticket. On the east bank of the river runs the Kolkata Suburban Circular Railway. In six visits over seven years we have never seen a train on this. Today, as we were crossing the track at BBS Bagh station an imminent arrival was announced. D had to wait to see it as it trundled in off a single track section. Can this line be worked into the plan?
Once across the railway the streets were virtually deserted. Notices posted on the Reserve Bank of India stated in large letters that only Indian Passport holders who have been living abroad had any chance of changing redundant 500 and 1000 rupee notes. Not that we have enough to get worked up about.
As we passed BBS Bagh we spotted a tram that seemed to be heading our way. It was and we hopped on. We were the only passengers and the lack of traffic meant that we travelled express pace throughout. A demonstration of how good Kolkata trams could be with a bit of planning and traffic management.
Back at the Fairlawn tea was being served, very welcome on a humid afternoon. The restaurant choice tonight is limited because of the holiday and all bars are shut. We opt for the rooftop at the Lyndsay, a nearby hotel which we have survived a couple of times before. We eat veg and it is good even if the appetiser arrives after the rest of the food. We are not tempted by their garishly coloured mocktails and stick to water.
The city seems rather subdued tonight. Not much noise, no fireworks and very little amplified music. Perhaps an England win in the T-20 match has done this. Probably not. Forward planning means that we have a couple of cold beers in our fridge to enjoy before lights out.
Hilarious.
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